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Friday 3rd July, 2020

Hi

My goodness, the year just seems to roll by too fast. It's not that long ago that we were all in lock down in an unprecedented move for all of us..... level one has bought us to a new norm of an almost normal domestic community. Thus once we got past the frantic month of May, finally dispatched all of our plants from lock down and the other various levels and now our season is rolling pretty much as it should... though I do think that many of you have, at long last, embraced the online purchasing process after the alert levels, as it seems we are now consistently picking orders to have ready for our clients.
In amongst all the order picking we have managed to pot most of our roses, though I believe we still have a few more due for potting before we are finished. The deciduous ornamental and fruiting trees are now ready for potting so we have started on them. It has been a huge week on these and we have done some really good numbers so a good start but a long way to go before we are done as there are a few thousand plants to get through....I imagine that we have a good couple of weeks to go.
 
To prune or not to prune 
We prune for many reasons, but I think that the main ones are, to promote flowering which will in turn increase cropping, to enhance the shrub, tree or rose's natural form and to remove old and/or diseased wood... pretty simple stuff but it does seem to perplex many. Here in the Tron we don't rush to get this task done, there is still time as its warm here and they will start to grow too early. Wait until the end of July, or beginning of August even, but the job must be done by bud burst no matter where you are. Another important point to make is that pruning must be done on a fine day as moisture can transmit silver leaf, a fungal infection, usually of the rose family, with entry usually being through pruning wounds.
The basic techniques, I feel, can be applied to any plants but lets start with roses, just because it's rose time. New roses need very little in the way of pruning, generally just a tidy up from where they have been machine pruned... perhaps to outward facing buds. Some may feel the need to cut the thin or weaker canes out but I think they are so youthful that leaving them will result in more leaves to feed the bush next season.

  
The Cut
That cut, well that does take a bit of practise to get your eye in but the best cut is on a very slight angle of about 45 degrees, almost flat really, just enough for moisture to run off. The key is to finish the cut just above and behind the bud with just enough angle to let the water run off away from the bud. Start just above the bud and finish above at the back of the bud. If you imagine a line drawn across across the stem above the bud that you don't go past. Too high, and of course through or below the bud, could result in die back. One is also meant to use your secateurs with the cutting blade down closest to the buds so the crushed piece is the bit that falls away. If you have any dieback on your branches, do ensure you stop it by pruning back to healthy wood.)
Don't overthink it, none of us get it perfect every time and I have yet to see a rose bush die from a bad cut, make it your general aim. I have never been a great believer of using a prune paint to seal the ends of the cuts as I think that plants are good at healing themselves. Bigger wounds, of course, may be treated a bit differently and a spray with copper and oil or lime sulphur afterwards is always a good thing.
The Process 
Young roses, new season roses, new to the garden roses, call them what you will but they need to grow what I call a framework that will carry the flowers and this development will take approx 3 years. (You will get flowers along the way of course) These are older branches from which younger canes will grow and then flower. The trick is to create an open shaped bush through which you get plenty of air movement by pruning to outward facing buds.
Established roses... generally these should be just a case of removing the spent flower canes leaving approx 3 to 4 buds at the lower end of the branch to re flower next season.. If the rose is getting on a bit and the framework cane is getting tired usually 5 to 7 years then you may remove it entirely and look to replace with something younger... its a continuum as younger canes always flower better than their older counterparts. Now if you are one that just dead heads through the season then you potentially many need to remove nearly 3 flowerings to bring your roses back to the framework... if you prune through the season then it may just be the last flowering.
There are so many different rose types but the general techniques apply to them all hybrid teas and floribundas tend to have a more formal or rigid frame work and usually around 75 to 100 cm. Climbing roses of the same ilk are very similar but the framework is much bigger and potentially like an espalier... shrub roses like the Austins and other types are just more shrubby but you are still removing the flowered stems and ideally aiming for an open well presented shrub.
 
Just Arrived 
Everybody loves Daphne, they seem to have an eternal fragrance that awakens every winter from a plethora of pink and white flowers. They have just arrived in the garden centre and are almost ready to deliver their beautiful fragrance once again. 
Daphne odora Leucanthe is the classic with those heavenly fragrant pink and white flowers which tend to bloom in the winter... also just in is the very popular white form being Alba... just as fragrant as the pink.. this Leucanthe has great form growing into a small bushy shrub of around 80cm.
Daphne burkwoodii is a bit different from Leucanthe in that it has smaller leaves that are actually semi deciduous. Typical daphne flowers, full of fragrance, come in the spring and there is also a variegated form that makes for a stunning little shrub.
Daphne standards are something a bit special delivering all the beauty and fragrance of a bush but able to sit at a higher level in the garden, offering a second tier of colour and form while also at the perfect height to enjoy the fragrance as you walk past.
 
Blue Totaras, really nicely developed plants, an awesome grade, these would be suitable for an instant hedge or you could let them grow up a bit and start developing your own cloud trees.
Buxus standards are back again, these are a great grade for the price .. stocky plants with a well developed head at only $99.99. Standards are excellent for introducing a formal look or for container gardening. We have many plants available in standard form, check out the Topiary section for more options. 
School holidays are upon us again, fresh cool weather with stunning clear sky days that are starting to lengthen... not that I have noticed it yet... at the rate time races past we will be into spring in no time ... can't wait for some daylight after work again.
The Waikato Rose society are going to have members here once again to offer their knowledge on all things roses, the final days they will be available to talk with you will be on Saturday 11 July starting at 1pm and on Sunday 12 July starting at 11am. You can click on the dates above to register your interest on our facebook page.
Here's hoping for a nice fine weekend so we can all have a productive time in the garden.
LLoyd, Tony and the Wairere team

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Wairere Nursery
826 Gordonton Road, R D 1, Hamilton 3281 Ph: (07) 824 3430 Email: